December 22, 2003
sparkling wine is in order. Few wines
spark emotions as easily as Champagne
and other sparkling wines. As an aperitif,
dinner accompaniment or stand-alone
cocktail, these wines are a crowd-pleaser.
For many people, Champagne has
become the generic term for all sparkling
wines. But Champagne is actually the
region in France where sparkling wines
first were created and is home to most of
the world’s best sparkling wines. Certainly
other regions produce very good sparkling
wines, but Champagne really was first and
best. This region – with the help of the
European Union – is currently pursuing
legal action against those who use
“champagne” to describe wines made
elsewhere.
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The key distinction between sparkling and still wines is the presence of carbon
dioxide bubbles. These bubbles occur naturally during fermentation of all wines, but
the production and bottling processes for sparkling wines trap the carbon dioxide,
retaining these bubbles in the end product. Carbonation can also be artificially
added to wine, but these beverages are inferior to naturally carbonated wines.
There are two primary methods for producing sparkling wines. The less expensive
and faster method is to induce a secondary fermentation in large, pressurized tanks.
Wines produced in this manner are usually ready to drink within a few weeks or
months and are pretty basic wines in terms of taste.
The more traditional method involves conducting the second fermentation in
individual bottles. Methode Champenoise as its known in the U.S. is a lengthy and
expensive process where wine, sugar and yeast are added to the bottles which are
stored in cool, dark cellars. The secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle,
resulting in natural carbonation. These bottles age for months or years depending
on the winemakers’ desired outcome. A sweetening solution known as dosage is
added prior to final corking and bottling.
Grapes Used in Sparkling Wine
Just as in still wine, tradition and regional climate often determine which grape
varieties are used to make sparkling wines. The most common grapes used
worldwide are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. These are the primary
grapes of the Champagne region, the United States and other new world producers,
but you’ll find German sparklings made from Riesling, Spanish Cavas from local
Spanish grapes and Australian sparkling Shirazes.
Italy is also a major producer of sparkling wines primarily made from the Moscato
grapes. Asti Spumante does not have a stellar reputation, but there are plenty of very
good sparkling wines from the Asti area in Piedmont. These wines are best enjoyed
young when their flavors are still fresh and fruity.
Another Italian sparkling to try is Prosecco. This wine typically comes from the
Veneto region and offers wonderfully fruity wines, great bubbles and inexpensive
prices.
Legend has it that Nicolas Ruinart, a
Benedictine monk, created the first
champagne and founded the first
champagne house in 1729. Prior to that,
the wines made in Champagne were still
wines. During the 1800s, more than 80
additional champagne houses were
established. More than 250 million bottles
were produced in 2000.
Champagne has more than history working
in its favor. The climate and soils are
perfect for growing the right grapes to make
outstanding wines. Warm summer days
and cool nights allow the grapes to fully
ripen while maintaining proper acidity. The
resulting wines are elegant, age-worthy,
complex and delicious.
Dom Perignon – a student of Dom Ruinart
– is recognized as one of the world’s finest
Champagnes. It’s produced by Moet &
Chandon. Other major producers include
Taittinger, Perrier-Jouet, Mumm, Heidsieck,
Deutz, Roederer and Veuve Clicquot. Most
houses offer Champagnes in a variety of
styles and at different price points. But note
that few Champagnes are inexpensive.
Lower-priced offerings usually start at
around $20 and move up quickly.
Non-Vintage is one of the
best-selling Champagnes in the U.S.
Some retailers use it as a loss
leader to generate store traffic.
Bpttom: La Grande Dame is
Veuve's top-of-the-line offering and
is only released in years where
grape quality is outstanding.
Champagne and sparkling wine is produced in a number of different styles, which
are typically determined by the grapes used.
Blanc de blancs is produced exclusively from white grapes and is usually made from
just Chardonnay. These wines are typically lighter and more delicate than blended
wines.
Blanc de noirs is made from dark skinned grapes including Pinot Noir. Contact with
the skins is kept to minimum so the wine is light in color but has bigger body and
flavors.
Roses are typically blended from multiple grape types, but almost always have some
Pinot Noir for color.
Cuvees are blends made from different grapes, vintages and base wines
Vintage Versus Non-vintage
Most sparkling wines are non-vintage. This usually means that the base wines from
multiple vintage years that are blended together. Most producers have a standard
“house style” that they try to keep consistent from year to year. This is done through
careful blending of base wines from various years as well as other production
techniques. Consistent quality and style is important in building consumer
satisfaction and reputation.
Non-vintage Champagnes are typically aged for two to three years and will cost $20
to $40 a bottle. They are best consumed within three years of purchase. Non-
vintage sparkling wines from other regions will typically cost less than Champagne
and should be enjoyed relatively young. You’re best off buying your sparkling wines
from a retailer that sells high volume, so you’ll have a better chance of wine that is
not past its prime.
Vintage Champagnes are made in those years when good weather results in
superior grape quality and the Champagne house feels it can make outstanding
Champagnes from that year’s harvest. Depending on weather, vintages are
declared somewhat less than half the time.
Vintage Champagnes include the famous Dom Perignon, Cristal from Roederer and
La Grande Dame from Veuve Clicquot. Prices for these wines are considerably
higher than non-vintage offerings. They often receive extended cellar aging and will
continue to improve with time. The flavors are often more complex and intense than
non-vintage Champagnes.
Sweetness Levels
Champagnes and sparkling wines can contain varying levels of residual sugar and
thus have different sweetness. The sweetness level is a result of the initial grape
quality, production steps and the dosage. A Champagne’s label will indicate the
sweetness. From driest to sweetest:
Extra Brut or Brut Sauvage – Completely Dry
Brut – Dry
Extra Dry – Medium Dry
Sec – Slightly Sweet
Demi-Sec – Moderately Sweet
Doux – Sweet
The majority of Champagnes and sparkling wines sold in the U.S. are Brut.
What to Try and What to Buy
Making specific sparkling wine recommendations is an iffy proposition because
each person’s preferences are unique. And I know plenty of people who say they
don’t like sparkling wine at all. Of course their primary sparkling experience has
been Cold Duck, “Nasty Spumante” and other low-end options.
If you’ve never tried “good” sparkling wine, I encourage you to give these festive
wines another chance. Start out with some of the American offerings which are
bubbly, dry and fruity. Mumm, Kenwood and Domaine Chandon offer very enjoyable
wines that can be purchased for as little as $13. These are perfect for a cocktail
party. For $25 to $35 you can buy very good bottles from sparkling specialists
Schramsberg, Iron Horse or J.
When you’re ready to move up to Champagne, you’ll have plenty of options. Any of
the houses mentioned above are worth a try. You’ll need to experiment a little to
decide what style and sweetness levels you prefer. A good wine bar is a great place
for research. You can sample a number of Champagnes without spending for entire
bottles.
Finally, give the sparkling wines of other countries a chance. You can get good Asti
and Prosecco at very reasonable prices. The Cavas of the northest part of Spain are
also good and affordable. Freixenet is the largest producer. Experience firsthand
the differences and similarities of these wines compared to classic Champagne.
And if you’re looking for good, bargain bubbly then consider Australia. Both Seaview
and Wolf Blass make light, enjoyable sparklings that can be purchased for less than
$10.
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