Winery of The Week
December 22, 2003

G.H. Mumm & Co. and
Mumm Cuvee Napa
Mumm.  There’s something about the
name.  It rolls as easily off the tongue
as their champagnes and sparkling
wines roll down your throat.  
Whenever we visit wineries in the
Napa Valley, my wife starts chanting
the Mumm name as soon as we turn
onto the Silverado Trail.  “Mumm,
Mumm, Mumm!” is repeated until we
pull into the driveway and she knows
that satisfaction is at hand.
To me, Mumm is a perfect example of world-class bubbly.  From it’s long history in
Champagne, France to it’s new world innovations, this company delivers sparkling
wines in a range of styles to suit every taste and every budget.

History of G.H. Mumm & Company
The company was originally founded in Champagne, France in 1827 by three
German brothers who named the firm after their father Peter Arnold Mumm.
Sparkling wines had just started to catch the world’s attention when the brothers’
released their first products in 1829.

In 1875, Mumm’s red-sashed flagship Champagne, Cordon Rouge, was launched,
and when introduced in the United States, received an unprecedented following. By
1901, Mumm had become the leading Champagne brand, selling 125,000 cases of
Champagne with the United States receiving a third of these cases.

During World War I, the Mumm family, without French citizenship,  was forced back to
Germany.  Mumm was sold to a group of dedicated investors.  Today Mumm is
owned by liquor and wine conglomerate Allied Domecq.  Champagne Mumm now
boasts annual sales of 650,00 cases with two thirds exported to over 100 countries.
Mumm Cuvee Napa Opens
In 1979 Champagne Mumm
initiated a quest to find the ideal
winegrowing area in the United
States. Guy Devaux, a master
winemaker and an expert on
méthode champenoise led the
U.S. expansion.  For four years,
Devaux criss-crossed the
country, buying grapes and
small lots of wine everywhere
there seemed to be promise—
he traveled from Oregon to
Texas, New York to Napa.
Mumm Cuvee Napa Winery in Rutheford
There was only one rule: the wine must be made from the traditional Champagne
grapes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. After venturing many road miles
and a thoroughly well traveled palate, Devaux finally selected the Napa Valley,
America's premier wine appellation in 1983.

Why the Napa Valley? Devaux wanted a region that would provide consistently good
fruit from an optimum grape growing climate. In the Napa Valley there are 14
distinctive American Viticultural Areas (AVA), and each region imparts its particular
flavor to the wines. All are blessed with the long hot days and cool nights that foster
perfect ripeness and balanced acidity.

Completed in 1987, the winery, a discreet barn-like building compliments the bucolic
setting amongst the grapevines with a natural ease—disguising the state of the art
sparkling wine making equipment, the winery is situated in the heart of Napa Valley
in Rutherford. In 1994, Mumm Napa Valley released its first tête de cuvée, the
acclaimed DVX.
Current Wine Offerings
Following are descriptions of the various  
wines along with an estimated retail price.

The Wines of Mumm Cuvee Napa
Fruit for  Brut Prestige ($18) cuvee is
selected from more than 50 separate
vineyards. Individual lots are kept separate
during initial fermentation to highlight
vineyard differences and specific strengths.
The wine is predominantly Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay with small amounts of Pinot
Meunier and Pinot Gris.  The end result is a
wine that is crisp, yet creamy with touches
of vanilla and melon.

DVX ($40) is made from carefully selected
lots of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.
Fresh and fruit forward.  Aromas are of
apple, pear, melon and raspberry with
subtle buttery notes.  These Chardonnay
flavors are balanced by the cherry and
raspberry notes of the Pinot Noir and
highlighted with a touch of toasted nut.
Top:  Aging Barrels in Champagne
Bottom:  Harvesting Chardonnay
grapes  in France
The Blanc de Blancs ($18) is the only sparkling wine produced in the United States
with a varietal makeup of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Pinot Gris. The
Chardonnay provides crisp acidity, citrus notes and structure as well as the
signature faint greenish gold color. The Pinot Gris provides a complement of fuller
fruit and spice components. The result is a distinctive combination of refreshing
crispness and sweet citrus flavors.  Note the persistent stream of very fine bubbles.  
The winery recommends shellfish, sole, trout, sashimi, calamari, veal scaloppine or
angel hair pasta with this wine.

The
Blanc de Noirs ($18), literally "white of blacks," is made primarily from dark
skinned grapes. In Californian sparkling winemaking, blanc de noirs is used to
describe slightly colored wines that range from light golden colors to rosé. It is a
delicate balancing act to create a superior Blanc de Noirs - the grape skins must be
quickly removed from the juice after the grapes have been crushed to prevent the
grape's dark skin from transferring too much color to the wine. This wine is made
from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay.  A powerful wine with a nose of ripe Pinot
Noir fruit, this will stand up to a range of cusine ranging from Thai to Italian.

The Wines of G.H. Mumm & Co.

Mumm’s flagship wine, Cordon Rouge($30) is a blend of the best crus, grape
varieties and vintages of Champagne Mumm. Cordon Rouge is a complex harmony
of brilliant fruit characters and French finesse. Cordon Rouge, launched in 1875 with
the distinctive red sash of the French Legion of Honor, is one of the world's most
popular Champagnes.  The bouquet is fruity, subtle and creamy.  Comprised of 45%
Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay.  Reserve wines typically make
up 20 to 30% of the cuvee.

Mumm Brut Rosé ($40) by Champagne Mumm is a new cuvée that combines the
nuance and finesse of Cordon Rouge with added power and fruitiness of Pinot Noir.
Made of 60% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier, and 22% Chardonnay. The Pinot Noir
provides color, structure and personality; the Pinot Meunier lends liveliness and
exceptional fruitiness; and the Chardonnay gives this charming rosé its delectable
balance.  Aromas of ripe strawberries and red currants mingle with bright citrus,
caramel and earth. Creamy on the palate with a long, elegant finish.

Mumm de Cramant ($55) is a Blanc de Blancs Champagne, made exclusively from
Chardonnay grapes grown in the 100 percent rated village of Cramant. Comprised
from a single vintage, the grapes for this graceful single cru cuvée reflect the diversity
and richness of the Cramant terroir. Because it is released at optimum vibrancy in its
youth – instead of the 36 months of aging required by law for a vintage-dated
Champagnes – Mumm de Cramant cannot be labeled as a vintage Champagne.

Mumm Carte Classique ($25) is made exclusively for the U.S. and Canada. To keep
the style of Carte Classique consistent year after year, each year’s cru is vinified
separately before blending into a cuvée.  The Champagne spends two to three years
in Mumm's Champagne cellars, substantially longer than the minimum 12 months
required by Champagne-imposed regulations.   Gold in color and extremely
effervescent and tiny bubbles. Carte Classique is fruity and rich.  Boasting 55 percent
Pinot Meunier, this round, rich, fruity Champagne finishes with subtle sweetness.

Mumm Joyesse is a demi sec Champagne, so it is sweeter and richer than bruts
and other dry styles.  The cuvée is a blend of 50% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir and
15% Chardonnay.  Deep golden yellow in color with hints of amber, Joyesse has
aromas of peach and pear with notes of honey and vanilla. Layers of smooth,
honeyed, well-rounded flavors of ripe white pears, juicy plums and yellow peaches
finish with delightful notes of candied ruby grapefruit.
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