April, 2003
While Denver was digging out from 37 inches of
snow this past March, I had the pleasure of touring
many of New Zealand’s top wineries. While I
missed the “blizzard of a lifetime,” I did enjoy some
fabulous wines and wonderful hospitality.
Many in the wine industry compare New Zealand to
California in the 1960s. They have the perfect
climate and landscape for wines and they’re just
starting to learn how to make the most of it to
produce world-class wines. But a huge increase in
investment and interest are resulting in an
explosion of grape growing, winemaking and
exporting.
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landscape consistently produce flavorful grapes that are turned into delicious
and distinctive wines. Plus, relatively low production costs and the favorable
exchange rate mean that NZ wines offer great value in the U.S. When I visited,
the exchange rate was $1 NZ equaled 55 cents U.S.
New Zealand’s proximity to Australia is deceiving. While dwarfed on a map by
Australia, New Zealand is actually quite a large country and takes several
days travel by car. The country is comprised of two islands, each with multiple
wine regions. I was able to visit both islands, sample wines from all regions
and talk with winemakers about their wines and aspirations.
North Island
Hawke’s Bay
Located on the western coast, Hawke’s Bay is the primary producer of the
New Zealand red wines that are exported to the U.S. Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot are the predominant grapes, with Cabernet Franc and Syrah beginning
to catch on. Climate and soils can vary significantly by vineyard, necessitating
care when buying these wines. Villa Maria is my favorite Hawke’s Bay winery
with Cabernet/Merlot blends that offer good value.
Gisborne
Located north of Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne is the eastern-most part of New
Zealand. Chardonnay makes up the majority of grapes grown. Brancott
consistently produces nice, juicy Chardonnays that typify this region and can
be found in grocery stores and large retailers at prices as low as $10.
Kumeu/Henderson/Huapai
This area northwest of Auckland, is actually home to many of New Zealand’s
major wine companies, but is becoming increasingly insignificant as a
source of grapes as farmland is converted to residential or commercial use.
Frequently, grapes are transported from vineyards in other regions and
vinified at large, corporate wineries. One exception is Kumeu River Wines,
which makes several rich and elegant Chardonnays from local grapes.
Wellington
This region comprises the southern end of the North Island and is separated
from Marlborough on the South Island by Cook Strait. Wellington doesn’t
produce a great quantity of wine, but does produce very good Sauvignon Blanc.
South Island
Marlborough
Despite only 30 years of grapegrowing, Marlborough is the crown jewel of
New Zealand wine. Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are treasured throughout
the world for their distinctive citrus flavors and refreshing acidity. Almost all
New Zealand wineries make Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs using their own
or purchased grapes. Cloudy Bay is the most famous producer, but almost
all bottlings range from good to excellent. Omaka Springs, Lawson’s Dry Hills
and Huia are sure to please.
Canterbury
Five years ago, Canterbury was an up-and-comer on the world’s wine stage,
but its promise has been usurped by other NZ regions that are delivering
more consistent results. There are a few nice Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays,
but nothing exceptional.
Central Otago
Central Otago is the world’s highest and most-Southern wine region. Pinot
Noir is showing great promise as it benefits from large daily temperature
swings. The hot days and cool nights produce intense, yet pure wines.
Gibbston Valley and Felton Road are highly regarded, but only available in tiny
quantities in the U.S. If you can find a Pinot from Central Otago, try it.
Being in the Southern Hemisphere, the harvest was just beginning in mid-
March when I visited. Most growers were expecting grape yields to be
significantly less than recent years due to early season frost, cool summer
weather and rain. Thus 2003 bottlings are likely to cost more and be of lower
quality than the 2001 and 2002 offerings currently on retailer shelves. One
more reason to stock up now.
In talking with various New Zealand winemakers, it’s clear that they are at a
crossroads. They’ve staked their position with Sauvignon Blanc and are trying
to collectively determine where to focus next. Some believe Chardonnay is the
smart route, given worldwide consumption patterns of that grape. Others
believe that white varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Gris represent
untapped opportunities to further showcase the “New Zealand style.” And still
others want to establish New Zealand as a source for world-class reds.
However it turns out, it will be fun to watch and delicious to taste.
Back to Wine Regions.
