November, 2003
Picture a rain-washed Northwest forest with its
damp, earthy aromas mixed with cedar. Think of
the taste of ripe black cherries full of juicy vibrancy.
Now put these sensations together and you’ll start
to understand Pinot Noir.
One of the most treasured wine grapes, Pinot Noir
inspires passion on all ends of the emotional
spectrum. At its best, it’s a grape of great flavor and
elegance. But there are plenty of over-priced and
unworthy Pinots as well.
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thin skin which makes it fragile both on the vine and in production. When done
correctly, Pinot Noir combines concentrated flavors, intoxicating aromas and age-
worthiness. These characteristics and the grape’s relatively small yields often
lead to high prices for high-end Pinot Noir.
The Classic Grape of Red Burgundy
France’s Burgundy region is the historical home to Pinot Noir, The grape has
been grown in this part of France for more than 2,000 years. Individual vineyards
are extremely small and the nuances from one plot to others – even neighboring
areas – can be dramatic. As a result the availability of the best Burgundies is
extremely tight and prices often stratospheric.
Classic Burgundy Pinot Noirs offer a range of enticing aromas including floral and
fruity to earthy and woodsy. Flavors of sweet cherries and strawberries can be
interlaced with truffle nuances. Not particularly tannic, most Burgundies peak
between five and ten years from vintage date but some will age well for decades.
Oregon Taking Lead In American Pinot Noir
While California has the recognition as America’s fine wine leader, Oregon may
be making the country’s best Pinot Noir. The combination of cooler weather and
improved technical knowledge has led to a great improvement in the overall
quality of Oregon’s Pinot Noir offerings. Oregon wineries crushed nearly 10,000
tons of Pinot Noir grapes in 2002, meaning this varietal was approximately half of
the state’s total grape production. Pinot Gris was a distant second at slightly
more than 4,000 tons and Chardonnay had only 2,300 tons.
Oregon has also experienced cooperative weather in recent years. Relatively dry
autumns have allowed grapes to fully ripen without becoming diluted.
Winemakers have also gained experience in working with this tricky grape
meaning the finished wines are of higher quality. Factor in the steadily increasing
acreage devoted to Pinot Noir grapes and overall outlook for Oregon Pinot Noir is
bright. Prices are not cheap, but they’re not usually as outlandish as French
Burgundy or California Cabernet. Plenty of good bottles are available in the
$15-$18 range and very nice bottles can be purchased for less than $30. I like the
offerings from Sineann/Owen Roe, Foris and Argyle.
California Pinot: A Mixed Case
California’s Pinot Noir fortunes are more mixed than Oregon's. Some of the
country’s most prestigious Pinots including Williams-Selyem and Marcassin are
California produced. Overall success is sporadic with some regions consistently
producing outstanding grapes and others just as consistently average. The
Carneros appellation at the south end of Napa and Sonoma valleys as well as the
Sonoma Coast, Russian River and parts of Mendocino typically have the most
success with Pinot Noir. These areas offer the relatively cool temperatures and
fog that helps Pinot Noir achieve excellence. Warmer areas can result in less
elegant wines that are harder and more vegetal.
Other Sources for Pinot Noir
If you’re used to relying on Australia and New Zealand for good wine at affordable
prices, you may be disappointed when it comes to Pinot Noir. There are some
good Pinots being made in New Zealand, but the quantities shipped to the U.S.
are quite small. Like most New Zealand wines, the Pinots from there are often
brighter and more acidic than French or American Pinots. The Central Otago
region of New Zealand shows promise as a source of more complex Pinot Noir,
but again quantities are currently quite small.
Australian Pinot Noir is nothing special, although some wines coming out of
Tasmania are generating interest.
Back to Red Varietals.
