January 2004
look at how the major wine producing
regions fared during the year. Northern
Hemisphere producers are just months
removed from their harvest, while
Southern Hemisphere winemakers are
already gearing up for the 2004 crop
which is already ripening on the vines.
The first 2003 wines -- mostly Sauvignon
Blancs and Rieslings -- from the
Southern Hemisphere are starting to
arrive in American wine shops.
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Villa Maria's Marlborough vineyard
standout -- and will turn that fruit into outstanding wines. 2003 weather was not a
kind to other regions including New Zealand and . The result is reduced quantity
and quality. Consumers must take extra care when buying these wines.
New Zealand
2003 was a very tough year for New Zealand winemakers. The season began with a
series of frosts that hampered the budding process and led to smaller than typical
yields. North Island regions including Hawke’s Bay were the hardest hit by frost,
while the impact in Marlborough was localized.
Temperatures throughout the growing season were relatively cool, further
diminishing yields and ripeness. Heavy rains arrived late in the season making for a
difficult harvest. On my NZ visit in March 2003 I saw container after container of wet,
diluted grapes with inconsistent ripeness. Cluster-by-cluster sorting was required to
separate out the quality grapes. As Phil Spillman, winemaker at Villa Maria told me,
“We’ve been spoiled by the consistent quality in recent years. This will be a year
where we really have to make some tough decisions.”
The overall NZ harvest was approximately 76,000 tons, down 35 percent from 2002.
The harvest at Montana Wines, the country’s largest producer with brands including
Nobilo, Brancott & Stoneleigh, was down 45 percent from 2002.
One bright spot was Pinot Noir. The Central Otago region avoided most weather
problems. Though these wines are available in the U.S. in small quantities, the
2003 wines will be of good quality.
Buying advice: Quantity and quality will be significantly lower in 2003 than the last
few years. The 2003 whites are starting to appear on retail shelves. Do not buy in
quantity without first sampling a specific brand or bottling. Of the widely available
wines I’ve tasted, the Sauvignon Blancs from Brancott, Cooper’s Creek and Matua
Valley are recommended.
South Africa looks to be the
beneficiary of New Zealand’s weather-
driven production shortcomings.
Weather in South Africa was generally
very good during the 2003 growing
season. Total countrywide production
increased by 12 percent primarily due
to new vineyards coming online. The
Paarl and Stellenbosch regions led
the way with harvest increases of
more than 45 percent each.
ripened slowly and fully, resulting in full-bodied and complex flavored wines. I highly
recommend the 2003 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc. It’s the most interesting
Sauvignon Blanc I’ve had since my visit to NZ 10 months ago.
Winemakers are optimistic about their 2003 reds as well. Expect bigger, more
concentrated wines than in recent vintages.
Buying Advice: South African whites are generally well priced and the quality is much
more consistent in 2003. Be adventurous in sampling and buying these wines.
Buying South African Reds still requires some research. Pinotages, Merlots and
Shirazes are the most consistent in this vintage.
Australia
Total harvest in Australia was down 10 percent in 2003 from 2002. This was the first
annual decline in six years and comes despite a significant increase in the total
acreage devoted to grape production.
Warm weather and extended drought were the culprits, reducing the yield in most
regions. But the reduced quantities did produce an upside in grape quality and flavor
concentration. The total harvest of Shiraz – which is Australia’s most widely grown
grape, representing one-fourth of total Australian production -- was down only
slightly. Most of the shortcoming came from Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and
Semmillon and Grenache. Pinot Noir experienced a significant increase due to new
vineyards coming online.
Buying advice: Australian wines at all price levels have flooded the U.S. market in
recent years as Americans have clamored for the big flavors and relative value.
There are plenty of great Aussie wines from earlier vintages currently in market.
There’s no pressure to heavily buy the 2003s. Do some sampling and buy what you
like. Being picky will pay with this vintage.
Winemakers in Chile are claiming
that 2003 was the best vintage in
more than ten years with
concentrated and complex wines.
The growing season was longer than
typical, resulting in wines that are
extremely ripe, yet still balanced with
natural acidity. Winemakers are most
excited about their Cabernet
Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah
wines.
as the very good 2002 wines. Malbec continues to be the star, producing deeply
colored and intense wines.
Buying Advice: If you typically enjoy South American wines, then 2003 is a great
vintage with which to stock your cellar.
