December 2003
different recollections as to how that destination was chosen, but nevertheless,
we arrived in Madrid in October 1995 for nearly two weeks.
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probably came across as typical
American tourists. We knew enough
Spanish to attempt the language, but not
enough to be understood. This became
apparent when we received a bottle of
wine that had spoiled and attempted to
send it back. I repeatedly told the waiter
that the wine was “malo” or bad. He
kept saying “you don’t like?” If only I had
known the word for spoiled or rotten.
we were actually disappointed. The accommodations were pretty rustic and the
food could be summed up in one word: ham. I love Serrano ham, but that was all
anyone ate in many parts of Spain. The highlights of that trip turned out to be the
fabulous churches and mosques throughout the country, some wonderful art
museums and an introduction to surprisingly good Spanish wine.
My wine knowledge was considerably less in 1995, but I recall sitting in a variety of
restaurants and bars and enjoying the local wine while yearning for a good old
American hamburger or hot dog. The tintos, as red wine is referred to in Spain,
were hearty and expressive and they were incredibly cheap.
impression of Spain is much higher. A trip
to Barcelona in 1999 gave us a new
appreciation for Spain’s cuisine and
accommodations.
And I’m even more excited about the wines
of this historical country. Like its French
and Italian neighbors, Spain combines a
long wine-making tradition with new
innovations and aspirations. Wine has
been produced in Spain since Roman
times, and until the last 15 years, there
hadn’t been that many major changes in
the process. Bodegas were managed by
successive generations of the family
following the same traditions. And while
the wines were good, they didn’t command
much attention outside of the country. Now
a new breed of winemakers are taking the
best of Spain’s winemaking heritage and
branching out in new directions.
Below: In Ribero del Duero
Rioja
Rioja is the best known wine region in Spain. Red Rioja wines are made from the
Tempranillo grape in this northern region. These are full-bodied wines with deep
flavors from the grapes as well as the terroir. Top producers include Finca
Allende, Muga and Marques de Riscal which is in the process of opening an ultra-
luxury hotel as part of its winery.
Riojas are identified by their age and fermentation technique. Crianzas are aged
in large oak vats for at least one year and then aged in the bottle. Reservas see at
least two years in oak plus additional time in the bottle prior to release. Gran
Reservas spend at least three years in oak prior to additional bottle aging. It’s not
uncommon to find Riojas on American retail shelves that are six or seven years
old from vintage date. Many very good wines can be purchased for less than $20.
White Riojas are improving rapidly and are typically made from the Viura and
Malvasia grapes. A variety of styles are available from fresh and fruity to heavily
oaked.
Priorat
Priorat is located just southwest of Barcelona, adjacent to Tarragona. A
combination of established wineries and newcomers are producing exciting
wines from typically old vineyards dominated by Garnacha (Grenache) and
Carienena (Carignane) vines. Outsiders have brought plenty of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah vines as well. The result is a new emphasis on
blends. These are typically big and powerful wines that show the influences of
their terroir as well as the style of the winemaker. The prices for Priorat wines
have increased in recent years, pushing them out of my range for everyday
drinking.
Penedes
Penedes is the home of Spain’s sparkling wine Cava. Freixenet and Codorniu
are the best known producers, but numerous winemakers are making interesting
sparklers ranging from dry to sweet. Prices are very reasonable.
I also like the still wines from Miguel Torres. His Sagre de Toro and Gran Sagre
are not particularly complex wines, but they’re very enjoyable reds and pair well
with food. And at just $6 or $10 a bottle, they’re a value.
Toro & Ribero del Duero
These two regions are north of Madrid along the Douro River which flows from the
Atlantic through Portugal prior to entering Spain. Home to earthy and rustic red
wines with dark fruit flavors, new wineries are popping up at a rapid pace. Give
these wines a try when you have an opportunity and watch as their reputation
increases in the coming years. You might also try Verdejo, a bold white wine that
rarely costs more than $10.
Galicia
The Rias Baixas region in Galicia produces white wine from the Albarino grape.
These enjoyable wines offer floral and mineral flavors and can run from crisp and
acidic to rich and textured. They’re a good match with the seafood influenced
cuisine of Spain’s coastal regions.
Jerez: Home of Sherry
If Rioja is Spain’s most recognizable region, then Sherry is its most famous wine.
Located on the Mediterranean Sea southwest of Sevilla, the Jerez region is the
global home to Sherry. These fortified wines consist of two major categories: fino
(light) and oloroso (richer and fuller bodied). Both types are initially dry, but can be
sweetened to meet the winemaker’s preferred style.
Alcohol is added after fermentation so that finos reach approximately 15 percent
alcohol and olorosos reach 18 percent. A yeast grows on the aging fino and
covers the wine, stopping the oxidation process, but changing the overall
character to one that is quite delicate.
The higher alcohol content of the olorosos prevents the yeast from growing and
the wine continues to age with exposure to the oxygen. These wines will be
bigger and bolder than finos.
Most Sherries are blended wines meaning that the new wine is combined with
older wine. Wineries may blend wines from as many as 10 vintages to produce
complex wines that are consistent from year to year. A variety of styles exist within
the fino and oloroso categories. Prices are very affordable and half-bottles are
often available.
Touring Spain
Spain has a tremendously rich culture, awesome architecture and a gorgeous
countryside. It’s also a large country that can be a challenge to traverse without
careful up-front planning.
There are an increasing number of wine-oriented travel packages that are a good
option for the first-time traveler interested in seeing wine regions.
I highly recommend staying in at least one of the Paradores. These are
government-run hotels inside of various historical castles, palaces and churches.
They offer interesting accommodations and are fairly priced.
Back to Wine Regions.
