June, 2003
Quick, think of a big, powerful red wine with tons of fruit flavor and enough
structure to hold everything together for a long time. Did a Cabernet
Sauvignon come to mind? Maybe it was one of those California Cult Cabs
you've heard about and seen on menus, but haven't tried yourself because
you can't justify the three-figure price tag when half of Denver seems out of
work.
You just as easily could have been thinking of an Australian Shiraz. The
surging popularity of this dazzling red has led Australia to become the No. 2
exporter of wine to the United States. And Australia isn't the only source of
delicious Syrah-based wines.
Syrah, as it is known outside of Australia, has been grown in France's
Northern Rhone region since at least Roman times and is typically the
primary grape in the prized wines of Cote Rotie, Hermitage and St. Joseph.
Though not as big or concentrated as their Australian counterparts, these
wines are rich and complex with flavors of black cherry, leather and pepper.
American winemakers are beginning to experiment with the Syrah grape and
offering big Aussie-style wines as well as Rhone-style wines. And best of all,
you can find great tasting Syrah wines from throughout the world at prices that
are considerably lower than Cabernet and other premium red wines.
Australian Shiraz
Australian Shiraz is the best value red wine available in the United States
today. Lower production costs and beneficial currency exchange rates more
than offset the costs of exporting, so that dozens of terrific Shirazes are locally
available in the $12 - $20 price. And very good "everyday" bottles can be
purchased for even less.
The Shiraz style is made for early drinking with lots of intense berry, chocolate
and cherry flavors that start immediately yet last and last. It's hard to go wrong
with any of the mainstream winemakers, but there are several producers that
consistently deliver great taste and great value. Peter Lehmann's "The
Barossa" and Yalumba Barossa Shiraz are big, juicy wines that are available
for $18. Rosemount offers a number of different Shiraz bottlings at various
prices. Their "Diamond Label is always good for just $8. Paringa South
Eastern Australia Shiraz is another juicy bargain at $12.
While most Australian Shiraz ages quite well, it's equally delicious upon
release. And at these prices, you can also afford more if you happen to
deplete your supply.
Rhone Wines
While it's hard to break a budget on Australian Shiraz, prices for Syrah-based
wines from the Rhone tend to be considerably higher across the board. But it
just takes a little more legwork to find alluring wines at reasonable prices.
The Rhone is divided into a Northern region where Syrah is the primary grape
and a Southern region where the Grenache grape is king. Other
lesser-known grapes including Petite Sirah and Mourvedre are grown in both
regions and winemakers frequently blend juice from a number of grapes to
make wine with complexity and flavor. Still, if you buy a wine from the Northern
Rhone areas of Cote-Rotie, Hermitage or St. Joseph, and you're likely to have
a wine that is predominantly made from Syrah.
Most of the currently available wines are from the spectacular 1999 vintage or
the very good 2000 vintage. The prices for the more recent vintage are more
reasonable, particularly for wines from lesser-known regions. The
Crozes-Hermitage area offers with the best value with a number of delicious
wines available for $20 or less. Domaine Desmeure's Crozes-Hermitage
Domaine des Remizieres Cuvee Christophe 2000 is offers a wide range of
delicious Syrah flavors in a medium-bodied, ready-to-drink wine. Paul
Jaboulet Aine's Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets 1999 is a very big wine that will
improve with aging. Both are imported in sufficient quantities to make them
available. For a larger investment ($40) Cave de Tain l'Hermitage's
Hermitage Les Nobles Rives offers luxurious berry and pepper flavors. This
complex wine was the hands-down favorite at a recent tasting of Syrah's I
conducted. They also offer a Crozes-Hermitages Les Nobles Rives that while
not as complex or flavorful, is worthy of its $12 price tag.
American Syrah
While American winemakers were a little late to Syrah-making game, they are
making great strides. And increasing number of California, Oregon and
Washington wineries are experimenting with Syrah and other Rhone grapes
with promising results at good prices. Cline and McDowell are two
vineyardsthat I especially like for fun and interesting wines at good prices.
Cline's 2000 California Syrah is a steal at under $10, while their 2000
Sonoma County Syrah ($16) and 2000 Los Carneros Vineyard ($25) provide
more concentrated flavors and longevity at higher price points. McDowell's
Mendocino Syrah is always a delicious value at $12. You should also try each
of these vineyards Viogniers, the quintessential white wine from the Rhone.
A number of Washington wineries including L'Ecole No. 41 and Columbia
Crest make consistently good Syrah as well. I'm partial to Hogue's Columbia
Valley Vineyard Selection for its berry, plum and spice flavors. It's a good
readily available and a good value at $15. I actually met owner Gary Hogue in
the wine section of a Chicago Costco store where the wine was available for
just $13.
In terms of matching Syrah wines with food, the earthy nature of Syrah/Shiraz
goes wonderfully with lamb dishes or other roasted meats. Venison and
game birds perfectly complement Rhone wines. Also consider incorporating
mushrooms or making a main course of grilled portabellas. You'll love how
the flavors work together.
Back to Red Varietals
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