November, 2003
Most people have a favorite holiday that they
anticipate and enjoy more than others. For the
young-at-heart there's Christmas, the romantic
have Valentine's Day and the patriotic have July 4th.
For the couch potato crowd, there's Thanksgiving,
with a four-day weekend, plenty of football and a
gut-busting meal, not to mention days worth of
leftovers.
Thanksgiving feasts will vary from family to family
and there are regional influences as well. But
roast turkey, potatoes, stuffing, cranberries and
green bean casserole are typical staples. Picking a
wine that complements those foods requires going
beyond Chardonnay and Merlot, and some lesser
known grapes are often the best options.
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The excitement of football aside, Thanksgiving is often a once-a-year
opportunity to visit with friends and family as well as reflect on our blessings.
If those aren't cause for celebration then nothing is. So I recommend starting
with a sparkling wine.
French Champagne is certainly an option -- albeit a relatively expensive one --
but lately I've been leaning toward Prosecco for my sparkling enjoyment.
These wines from the Veneto region of Italy, are typically creamy and fizzy with
flavors of mineral, pear and apple. Much drier and more enjoyable than Italian
Asti Spumanti, good Prosecco is usually available for $12-$16 a bottle. I
recently tried the Aneri Prosecco di Valdobbiadene and found it dry and
balanced with good fizz and a nice finish. It's a great apertif.
The Main Course
The strong and varied flavors of a Thanksgiving meal make it a challenge to
pair a single wine. But as most Thanksgiving gatherings are relatively large,
you'll probably go through multiple bottles of wine anyways. So I suggest
getting two or three different wines to allow some variety in tasting and satisfy
the palates of all your guests.
On the white side, Gewurztraminer and Gruner Veltliner are great choices.
The natural spiciness and apparent sweetness Gewurztraminer are
wonderful with the roast turkey and help it stand up to stuffing, casseroles and
cranberries. Germany and Austria are the home of world-class
Gewurztraminer, but you can find great bottles form Oregon and New York's
Finger Lakes region as well. Sineann, Andrew Rich and Tualatin are domestic
producers to consider.
Gruner Veltliner is an Austrian grape that makes sleek and interesting wines
with flavors to complement your holiday meal. Expect a medium body and
flavors of legumes, tea and mineral. Don't worry, the wines taste better than
they sound. And you'll likely be the first to introduce your guests to this fun
wine. Availability of Gruner varies, so go to a larger retailer in your area and
ask for a recommendation. You needn't spend more than $20 for a nice bottle.
As for reds, I'm partial to Zinfandel or Syrah. Both wines can demonstrate an
earthiness that works well with the Thanksgiving meal, but take care to stay
away from extremely big versions of these wines. High-alcohol Zins or Aussie
style Shirazes will overpower your food. I recommend lighter, more elegant
Zinfandels like those from Ridge. Syrahs from France's Rhone appellations
including St. Joseph and Cote Rotie are also a good match.
Dessert Wine Anyone?
While I typically love dessert wine, Thanksgiving is one meal that I'm usually
too full to appreciate a cordial. But for those with more restraint than me, there
are several good options. Geyser Peak makes a Shiraz Port that is enjoyable
and affordable at $12 a bottle. Kiona, Selaks and King Estate all have nice ice
wines that are sweet, yet balanced.
This Thanksgiving, expand your horizons and serve wines that will do justice
to your meal and please your guests. And don't forget to cheer on the Green
Bay Packers in their Thanksgiving Day game against the Detroit Lions. Enjoy!
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