February 2004
a frequent topic of discussion during the
winter months. And with many parts of
the country experiencing colder than
normal winters, it’s a good time to look
at wines to keep you warm until spring
arrives. Whether you’re looking for a
bottle to enjoy après ski or to cuddle up
with by the fire, these wines are the ticket.
When we talk of “warming wines,” we’re
predominantly talking about full-bodied
red wines. Higher alcohol and higher
tannin wines taste hotter than lighter
body wines and most white wines. They
also typically full-flavored making them
more satisfying in cold weather.
Conversely, light-bodied and acidic
wines are more refreshing in warm
weather.
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Photo Courtesy of Vail Resorts
Cabernet is typically a highly tannic wine that is usually full-bodied. And with
nuances of coffee and mocha, the flavors are a natural for cold weather. New world
Cabernet Sauvignons are the best choice in this context. They typically have more
exposure to oak, adding complexity to the natural fruit flavors. While Cab-based
wines from France are delicious and pricey, they tend to be more austere, particularly
when young. Chilean Cabernets are another option, although they are often more
rustic than wines from other countries.
If you’re looking for something less obvious than Cabernet, turn to the red grapes
native to France’s Rhone Valley. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre are the primary
grapes of the Rhone and whether blended or bottled on their own, these grapes
make wines with interesting spice and fruit flavors that tickle the tongue and warm
the body. Grenache is the primary grape in the wines of Chateauneuf du Pape,
Gigondas and Cotes du Rhone. Syrah is dominant in Hermitage and Cote Rotie.
But almost all red wines from the Rhone will be blends, with as many as 12 varietals
– including some white grapes – included in the cuvee. The wines of the Rhone are
also great matches for typical winter comfort foods like roasts and stews.
outside of France. A growing number of
Californian’s have taken up the Rhone
Ranger charge with Cline, Alban, Ojai and
Qupè among the most consistent.
Australia is another source for great Syrah
and Grenache wines that are big in body and
flavor. Most Aussie Shirazes are big, fruity and
warm. I also highly recommend the Grenache
wines from Yalumba and Rosemount’s GSM,
the closest thing to a native Rhone blend that
I’ve tasted from Australia.
Photo courtesy of National Cattlemen's
Beef Association
will stick to your teeth and your ribs. Inky in color and tannic, these wines are
big-bodied and intense. Your options for Petite Sirah are pretty limited, but Vinum,
EOS, Foppiano and Bogle are good choices.
Another wine that fits our criteria, but can be hard to find is Amarone. This wine from
the Valpolicella region of Italy is usually of blend of Molinara ,Corvina and Rondinella
grapes which are harvested and then left to dry on mats rather than immediately
undergoing pressing and fermentation. During the next few months water
evaporates from the grapes turning them partially to raisins and concentrating the
flavors. These dried grapes then undergo fermentation and vinifying. Young
Amarones will show dried flavors of cherry, prune and raisin, but older Amarones will
be peppery and leathery. Relatively high in alcohol mature Amarones from quality
vintages are complex and satisfying.
ripens easily and can make super-high
alcohol wines. Stroll down a retail aisle and
you’ll find numerous Zinfandels with alcohol
above 15 percent. Wines such as Cosentino
Cigar Zin and several of Ravenswood’s Zins
are over-the-top with fruit and alcohol. A glass
of these wines will melt any icicles stuck to
your moustache or earlobes.
Some of these Zinfandels are nearly as big as
fortified wines. If you really want a winter
warmer, eschew the table wines and go for
the original: Port. Ports are by definition
produced only in Portugal. They are made
when a distilled spirit – typically brandy – is
added to wine during the fermentation. The
result is a wine high in alcohol and flavor, yet
still sweet. They’ll stand on their own or nicely
finish off a meal.
that are dried on mats prior to
fermentation
also can do the trick. Full-bodied white wines like American Chardonnays and Pinot
Blancs can be the right choice in certain situations. Imagine coming inside from
rigorous winter sports such as cross country skiing or skating. You’re cold from the
temperature but warm from exertion. The big flavors and oaky nuances of these
wines combine with enough fruity refreshment to make these wines an enjoyable
choice even in cold weather.
