July, 2003
Most of the popular wine grapes are grown throughout in countries throughout
the world. And while some will argue whether the best Cabernets are from
Bordeaux or Napa, it’s accepted that both areas – and many others –
successfully produce Cabernet wine. Other grapes are including
Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, etc. are truly international. But there are some
exceptions to global nature of wine. Malbec is only produced in Argentina and
Pinotage only comes from South Africa.
So with Independence Day approaching, I thought I would look at a grape that
is truly an American original: Zinfandel. And while we all have friends and
family who just love a glass of Beringer White Zinfandel, we’re talking about
the “real” Zinfandel, red Zinfandel.
There has been much speculation regarding the origins of Zinfandel. Some
claim it is related to Primitivo or Sangiovese, the grape used to make Chianti.
Others trace it back to Yugoslavia. Regardless, it’s is the most widely planted
red grape in California, although much of the production does become the
blush slightly sweet wine.
Red Zinfandel can be made in a wide range of styles ranging from sleek and
subtle to over-the-top alcohol bombs made from over-ripe grapes. Zinfandel
features complex flavors including berry, cherry, pepper, plum and even earth,
leather and tar, depending on the vineyard and the winemaker’s style. The
size of Zinfandel grapes can vary significantly within each cluster, making it
difficult to attain consistent ripeness. Thus growers must take care when
picking to avoid green unripe flavors or raisiny over-ripe flavors.
Through much of the ‘90s, Zinfandel was a relative bargain compared to other
California red wines, with many of the best bottlings available in for just $15 or
so. Increased demand and labor costs associated with hand-picking have
led to higher prices for top Zinfandels, but there are still some delicious wines
at reasonable prices. Sonoma is recognized as the most consistent region
for Zinfandel, but plenty of good wines also come from other areas including
Napa, Lodi and Amador County.
The 2001 bottlings are now being released and the quality is considerably
higher than other recent vintages. Zinfandel wines are not particularly tannic;
making them wines that can be enjoyed immediately or cellared for three to
eight years.
There is a continuing debate regarding the preferred ripeness level for
Zinfandels. There are plenty of fans looking for big, ripe, jammy wines such
as some bottlings from Cosentino or Rancho Zabaco. With alcohol content
exceeding 14 or 15 percent, many Zinfandels are no longer considered table
wines. And while they often need food to tame them, these wines often border
on dessert wines with flavors and body similar to Port.
Others prefer a more balanced and elegant style. Zinfandel is not a subtle
wine and it will always have prominent fruit flavors. Still, makers such as
Seghesio, Fife and Ridge deliver bottlings that are complex and delicious
without the sledgehammer of extreme alcohol.
There are even Zinfandel specialists. Ravenswood and Rosenblum produce
a wide range of Zinfandels to suit all tastes and budgets.
So check out the new vintage of Zinfandels. It may not be a prototypical
summer drinking choice , but it’s an American Original.
Recommended Zinfandels
Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County Sonoma ($14)
Ravenswood Zinfandel California ($12)
Quivira Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley ($18)
Cline California Zinfandel ($10)
Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Sonoma Heritage Vines ($14)
Back To Red Varietals
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