January 8, 2004
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
Located southeast of Rochester is New York's Finger
Lakes wine region, a relatively unknown source of
interesting wines. If you've never been to this part of
New York State, it's nothing like Manhattan or even
upstate New York. The countryside features farms
scattered over rolling hills, lakes large and small and
the occasional small town. It feels more like
Wisconsin or Vermont than the Big Apple.
On the western edge of Keuka Lake, the western-most
of the Finger Lakes, sits the Dr. Frank winery.
Founded in 1962, this winery now produces 60,000
cases of wine annually and was named the New York
winery of the year in 2001 besting more than 160
competitors.
I visited the winery in mid December and tasted a
dozen of their wines. Like many NY wine producers,
Dr. Frank's best wines are white and sparkling wines.
Dr. Frank currently offers four different Rieslings and
they are all enjoyable. The 2002 Johannisberg
"Semi-Dry" has tropical fruit flavors and sweetness
comparable to a German Spatlese. The 2002
Johannisberg "Dry" was big and fruity with less
residual sugar. Both cost $13. The 2001 "Reserve"
was quite acidic and with both mineral and floral
flavors at $25.
Salmon Run is Dr. Frank's low-priced label and this
Riesling is a blend from recent vintages. It was crisp
and acidic with apricot notes for just $12. I also
enjoyed the 2002 Gewurtzraminer which had nice
spicy flavors and a long finish at $19.
It takes really cooperative weather to fully ripen most
red wine grapes in this region and none of reds the
winery poured were particularly memorable. The
winery also makes a number of sparkling wines that
were enjoyable but pricey costing between $20 and
$32.
Dr. Frank's is just one of 75 bonded wineries in the
Finger Lakes Region. All of its wines are available on
the web at www.drfrankwines.com.
Back to Wines of the Week.
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